This was to be our first Isle of Wight (IOW) Solent crossing this year and the first time ever for four of our group. We all arrived in good time on Sunday morning and were able to get changed, unload the boats and kit ready for a safety briefing on the beach.
While getting changed a very relaxed fox observed our comings and goings. On previous trips we’d seen a fox walking along the beach, so maybe it was the same one. No cows on the beach though.
After the safety briefing, we were on the water at 10 am. There were very light winds (F1), very light flows and no waves or swell. It was quite misty, so visibility was not that great. Our first destination was to paddle out to Horse Sand Fort. On the way we saw in the distance an unmarked ocean rowing boat going towards Bracklesham with three people on board. It looked like they were practicing, or at least two of them were.
After about an hour we reached Horse Sand Fort. This is one of four Palmerston forts built in the Solent to protect against an invasion by Napoleon. By the time the construction of these was completed, the threat had passed. Nevertheless Horse Sand Fort is impressive up close, being more than 64m in diameter and three storeys high. It boggles the mind as to how they have been built. Apparently during World War II the fort was manned entirely by people who could not swim. We did not see anyone on our visit and although it was sold in 2021 (for £715,000) it looked unrenovated.
At Horse Sand Fort we waited to cross the shipping channel until two ships had gone passed, one each way. Then it was a sprint across the shipping lane to get out of the way of any more ships that might appear.
Once across the shipping channel we headed towards St Helens Fort, although initially the sea mist made it difficult to see. St Helens is a smaller fort and much closer to the coast of the Isle of Wight. At the lowest tides of the year, it is possible to walk from Bembridge along the original causeway that was used in its construction.
As we approached the fort we spotted a seal who also seemed to be enjoying itself.
After about 2.5 hours in the boat it was time for a stretch and some lunch, so we landed opposite Bembridge on a sand and shingle beach. As forecasted, halfway through lunch, it started to lightly rain and we all put on our cags or storm cags. After an hour the rain stopped and we got back on the water and paddled up the East coast of the Isle of Wight to Seaview. What little wind there had been dropped completely and the sea was almost like a mirror. With the sea mist deadening any sound it was surprisingly peaceful.
From Seaview we paddled over to No Man’s Land Fort (also known as No Man’s Fort) – our third fort for the day – which has been refurbished as a hotel. Then we paddled purposefully across the shipping channel once more. With visibility very poor we had to listen carefully for oncoming ships before committing to our route. The Isle of Wight hovercraft could be heard no matter what though. Luckily there were very few boats on the water for the route back, probably because of the sea mist.
After 26km we arrived back where we started, having experienced some unusually calm paddling conditions for the Solent, with added sea mist for atmosphere.
