This is the delayed May 2022 trip to Bournemouth. Although it sounds like a train announcement we all went by car, meeting at The Arches on a cold September morning at 8am (although some were very keen and had been there an hour beforehand).
We all arrive at Alum Chine at the same time mid-morning and load the boats onto the trolleys to get down to the sandy beach. After a safety briefing on the beach we launched at 11:50am in force three wind with small waves that got bigger as we headed further out. Initially we headed for Isle of Wight which we can see on the horizon, and then for Hengistbury Head once we are out in the tidal flow. We make good progress, rounding the head in about an hour and a half.
Around the head we cross over the harbour entrance at Christchurch and then land at Avon Beach in front of the Noisy Lobster restaurant. While most of us have brought sandwiches or light refreshments for lunch, Rich decides to go large ordering chips and scampi from the outside kiosk. All freshly cooked but a long wait to arrive. Luckily some of us were able to entertain themselves practicing headstands in the cockpits!
On beach before launch, we can see Old Harry, Isle of Wight and Poole. After lunch we retraced our route back to Alum Chine across Bournemouth Bay, rounding Hengistbury Head where a small tide race was developing.
Around the head, the wind (F3) was directly in our faces, which means that it is hard work for about 15 minutes into Bournemouth Bay but then eases off as we get protection. Jenifer has adjusted her foot pegs at lunch and now is much faster even against the wind. Paddling along the coast close to Bournemouth we meet a RNLI person on a jet ski with a rear platform to rescue people. Luckily we don’t need his services and continue passed funicular railways and loads of beach huts.
Passing Bournemouth Pier we have a group picture in front of the helter-skelter at the end of the pier.
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Arriving back at Alum Chine we all agree that the trip was very enjoyable and we find that it is Phil‘s first time on the sea, Jenefer‘s first time out on the sea with the club (and the most she has paddled in a day) and Rich’s second time out with his new boat. So a very memorable trip for everyone!
It didn’t start that auspiciously, arriving in the dark, traveling through an apocalyptic rain storm and then my car battery conking out when I arrived, it was starting to feel like a bad idea! But then Saturday morning dawned, the sun was out, the wind dropped and Ringstead beach as a launch site beckoned. It was totally idyllic, the biggest headache was working out what to wear so we didn’t get too hot. After a short walk down from the car park and a full safety and trip briefing we launched straight off the beach and headed off eastwards, aiming to reach Lulworth Cove for lunch.
We played in some of the rocks around the headland from Ringstead, looking for the swells and gaps and practising our skills. Some went straight in for full thrills, others took it more cautiously, easing into the thrills, but regardless of experience, there was something for everyone, and the leaders encouragement helped build confidence and stopped any hesitation.
We were making good progress to Durdle Door, but before we reached the bay itself we had to pass through the Tolkien-like Bat’s Hole, a tiny sea arch only accessible by kayak, you paddle through and pop out into the next bay, next to the impressive Butter Rock stack.
Once through we carried on paddling towards Durdle Door. The arch doesn’t reveal itself when you approach from the sea until you pass it and turn back, then you’re faced with a really spectacular viewpoint, the full arch with beach behind, the reward unique to sea travellers. We all had the chance to paddle through the arch in the twinkling sunshine cresting the gentle swell, and then headed round to the next bay, Lulworth Cove.
But before we reached it we passed the intriguing entrance to Stair Hole sea cave so went to explore only to find ourselves joined by some free-climbers as one by one we paddled in, had a good look round and came back out. The incredible rock formations you can see when you paddle through the cave are aptly named the Lulworth Crumple, and having a sea eye view gives a unique perspective on this part of the coast.
We carried on round to Lulworth for lunch once Liza and David had performed an assisted rescue for Johnathan who had decided to try his luck on a wave breaking into the cove. After lunch and added ice creams we headed back in the afternoon sunshine watching the paragliders catching the winds off the top of the enormous white cliffs as we paddled past.
We took the opportunity to do more rock hopping on the way back, confidence boosted amongst those of us who needed it, and the more expert paddlers spotting the more challenging bits and having a go.
At last we came round the headland with our end point in sight, a last push got us back to the beach, sun heading towards its ending we landed and loaded. I had an amazing day, had the chance to make new friends and improve my confidence and ability in a safe and enjoyable way. The day was rounded off with a successful jump start thanks to magic gadget Rich, followed by dinner and a pint in the Bankes Arms, Corfe Castle. A lovely end to a perfect day.
If you enjoyed this blog, we also made a video of this day, which you can find here: Jurassic Coast October 2022 – YouTube or click play below (about 7 mins long):
We launched east of Lymington, passing through the New Forest on the way to the launch and see wild horses, cows and surprisingly loads of donkeys just wandering around the roads. The launch site was where a single track lane meets the sea at a shingle beach. The beach, near high water is covered but shallow, so the water drops quickly as the tide starts to move to LW. Parking is feasible if squashed against the hedges, so we kept the cars in the lane, but a more gung-ho Land Rover driver got stuck in the shingle while we are getting ready. We didn’t pay too much attention to that because from the beach we could just see the Needles in the distance.
We launched at HW+3hrs on Neaps without difficulty and no mud – good news! Very little wind (F2) and no waves, almost flat and full sun all day.
We followed the coast along to Lymington with some flow behind. Get to the marker ‘Jack in the Basket’ outside the harbour then cross the harbour entrance between multiple yachts and motor boats, without incident. Crossing the Solent we aim to Fort Victoria for about half the distance – then change direction to Fort Albert.
Fort Albert
We stop for a short rest on the water at Fort Albert, and find the water is quite clapotic with reflected boat wash. While adjusting maps I found myself going backwards, which was surprising since the plan had anticipated a tidal push towards the Needles for a further hour.
As a result we reached the Needles a bit later than planned and around Goose Rock (the end point of the Needles) there was a clear and strong eddy line developing.
Rounding the Needles we headed for the lunch spot at Scratchells Bay, under the huge white cliffs.
Lunch is finished off with Cathy’s flap jacks, individually wrapped in paper. There is no surf when leaving the shingle beach so we head over to Sun Corner to look in the cave with a beach in the back. There is enough room for two kayaks to get in at a time (backwards), and the cliff seems huge when up so close to it.
Heading back we went through the second gap at the Needles (smaller one) with water pushing us through.
We get a big push from the tidal stream (~1.8 knots) back upto Fort Albert, making it from the Needles in 35 minutes – which had taken 75 minutes on the way there! It also helped that the wind has picked up to F3 and was now directly behind us.
A cargo ship passed us as we approached Fort Albert and a few minutes after it passed we got a lot of waves (0.5m) in quick succession, again with reflections from the fort walls causing clapotic conditions. Reversing the outward route we made good time and once we loaded the boats it allowed us to have another individually wrapped flap jack before heading back to the Arches with the boats. Another fantastic day on the water!
This was my first trip on the sea after completing my Explore course in July. I was concerned about being able to complete the distance – estimated at 27 kilometres (around 14 nautical miles); after all, if you are doing a circumnavigation, it’s key that you can complete the trip. I checked with the Leader, Liza, with whom I had paddled one Thursday evening, and she didn’t predict any problems. And, indeed, there weren’t any! By the end of the day I was only slightly more tired than some of the more strenuous Thames paddles I have been on (plus Liza had a fallback plan should anyone struggle with the distance). Hey, if I can do this – you can too!
And this was a smashing introduction to sea kayaking. We started at Langstone Bridge, heading under the road bridge (with some fabulous struts that would make a great slalom course), across the old railway bridge, then, to the sound of oystercatchers, up the Langstone channel; most of this paddling this is very similar to Thames paddling.
Once we passed Eastney, we were in the sea proper: the force 3 created some good waves that weren’t too exciting, just what I wanted on my first trip as it gave me the experience of being raised on a wave and put down facing a different direction: hmm.
The sailing club was out in force around the tip of Chichester spit: there were 180 yachts racing and they presented some intriguing & picturesque views. Occasionally one was tacking towards us (well, sometimes a bunch of them) but we stuck together and they missed us. We made the Hayling Island Sailing Club beach ahead of schedule so had a prolonged lunch.
On the peaceful paddle back up the Emsworth channel – once again like a Thames paddle – we spotted a large hairy seal basking on the beach: quite a sight.
Our landing back at Langstone Bridge once again avoided the dreaded mud and, having packed up, headed to the The Ship Inn for some welcome drinks. Well, that’s whetted my appetite for more sea kayaking!
My first sea kayaking trip with CKC to Dartmouth… and it couldn’t have been more perfect! Arriving Friday night to the best camp site – Sea View – in Slapton, run by a lovely family. This is a regular campsite for CKC when paddling here with great amenities making it very comfortable and it was beautifully spacious and quiet. Giving the space and peace for a good night’s sleep to recoup between paddles.
The first paddle along Dartmouth’s estuary to the sea was a delight, and very interesting maneuvering around a busy harbour that happened to be full with a vintage boat regatta, and the ferries to avoid. All great skill practice!
There were views from the sea that can’t be seen from land – castles and mermaids (really!), deserted coves, caves to explore and rock hopping galore.
Castle and Mermaid (and seagull)!
We enjoyed a good mix of sea conditions: calm, slightly choppy, calm, windy. All great experience, we took our time and stopped in coves for lunch, swimming, sunbathing and practicing self rescue and assisted rescues and lots of practice with paddling skills around the rocks.
My favourite day was paddling out of the estuary to The Mew Stone where we spent lots of time with the Atlantic grey seals who where very mischievous sniffng our boats and playing with the stern toggles and swimming under our boats, an experience I will never forget!
I got lots of encouragement and skill sharing from Fiona and built up my confidence moving around through and across the rocks using the swell to help me across. I had lots of advice to help me get more out of my next trip so I can be even better prepared, develop my skills and knowledge to be able to support our peer paddles in the future. Great company with the CKC crew and some good meals and drinks together in beautiful Slapton village with a pleasant walk there and back to help rebalance the sea legs! Can’t wait for next visit!!!! In fact I’m still in Slapton at the camp site a week later as don’t want to leave!
Saturday we went from Dartmouth to Blackpool Sands and back. Winds F2 and sea calm except for boat wash.
Sunday we went from Dartmouth to Mew Stone and round Pudcombe Cove for lunch, rest and self rescue practices.
On this morning of our West highland adventure we were to wake up in our tents on a headland known as Sanna Point on the North coast of the Ardnamurchan Peninsula. We were in thick mist and cloud which was very atmospheric and part of the Scottish experience.
Looking back on this day it is good to reflect that not all days will be about moving forward on day trips, having a beach lunch and getting from A to B as planned, but can also be about gaining learning from the different potential and real incidents that occur. On this day the day did not go as planned and we had four main learning points.
Towing an empty boat. Firstly unfortunately one of the group was not feeling very well and did not feel able to get into his kayak and paddle. Deciding to walk back to the basecamp meant we had to tow his empty kayak back to Portuairk before we headed East for the day. Towing an empty kayak is not always straight forward if the weather conditions are a bit challenging – which they were starting to be. Anyway it was achieved by Jan taking the main tow and Rich holding the boat steady with a tow line at the back with Liza supporting them and acting as the communication link between them. We’d not done this for real in windy conditions before, so was a very useful learning experience. It was also very positive that the communication, planning and execution all worked effectively.
We met with some others of our group at Portuairk, then headed off together on our trip for the day.
TRAK kayak in choppy swell and windy conditions. The swell and wind were building a bit, F3 as we moved out of Sanna Bay. One of the group with his own foldable kayak that fits in a large bag, a TRAK (TRAK®: Ocean Sea Kayaks – Portable Performance Kayaks For Sale (trakkayaks.com), was struggling to keep straight in his kayak.
He had used the hydraulics system to ‘improve‘ his rocker in a way that looked like he was sitting in the middle of an extremely U-shaped banana! No wonder he could not steer the boat easily. Once he had shifted the rocker hydraulics to be flatter he was able to make some better headway. These kayaks do not have a skeg so will always be challenging to handle in bouncy sea conditions with strong wind.
Rescue of capsized paddler. The group was just about to pass through some rocky islets with waves breaking onto the rocks, when one of our group capsized. We immediately split the group with one person taking the majority of the paddlers to a calm inlet. Meanwhile the paddler in the water and their boat was towed out of the rocky islet so that an assisted rescue could be performed, without the risk of being pushed onto the rocks.
While the rescue was successful and neatly executed, we could see that an excess amount of rope in the water that had been used for towing could have made this rescue a lot more difficult. Once the paddler was back in the boat they needed time to recuperate and also get changed.
After this, the situation was reassessed and the decision made with the current weather and sea conditions that the rescued kayaker would struggle to continue with the day’s trip plan and we headed back to Portuairk.
VHF radio communication. The main group had also re-assessed the weather and sea conditions and decided to abandon the day’s trip also. This was effectively communicated on the radio so that all the group understood the situation and were all able to land safely at Portuairk, without re-grouping first.
We set off eastwards along the same route as our leisurely paddle on the first day, but this time without loitering. Although Kilchoan is almost opposite Tobermory, on the Isle of Mull, a southwest wind made a direct crossing impractical. Instead, our plan was to hug the coast with the wind behind us and cross in two stages; first from Ardnamurchan peninsular to the mainland at the narrowest point, then across the Sound of Mull into Tobermory’s postcard-pretty harbour.
To get home, we intended to paddle northwest along the tip of Mull then cross back to Kilchoan with the wind sending us in the right direction. Or, as Tudor said to dismissive chuckles, we could put our boats on the ferry. His suggestion seemed less ridiculous as the day wore on.
Most of the group turned out of Kilchoan bay smoothly, unflustered by wind and waves hitting from the side, but some (me) found it trickier. Wind was F3 all day with waves 0.5m, not breaking.
Skills gained in Spring training sessions were put to the test, with humbling and wobbly results. Progress was a slog, despite having the wind behind us, as less experienced paddlers struggled to anticipate waves from unpredictable directions.
We pulled up on an isolated shingle beach to refuel with sandwiches before the crossing. A mountain blocked access from the land – unfortunately, as Kenneth’s phone went missing here.
Bright sun and breezes were giving way to grey cloud, and drizzle as we set off. We aimed for a rock in mid-channel – in fact we aimed behind the rock – but as some passing in front anyway we soon abandoned the finer manoeuvres and headed instead for a red buoy and Auliston Point beyond it.
We had turned into wind. More effort, yet easier as there’s only one thing to do, and that’s dig in. David reminded me to dig my blade into the face of the oncoming wave. Timely advice.
At Auliston Point, we tucked into a rocky inlet so everyone could get their legs out of the boats and waggle them to dispel any pins and needles. What had looked like a building turned out to be a huge pile of lumber.
We expected conditions would be gentler in the Sound of Mull, as the island gave shelter from the SW wind. It wasn’t. Some lumpy water lay ahead, so we split into two groups – double ‘hamburger’ formation – divided into stronger paddlers with David and Tudor, and less experienced kayakers shepherded by Liza, Fiona and Phillipe. As the experienced group disappeared into the wind and rain, Fiona stuck close to my boat all the way.
The first half was choppy, with unpredictable waves were the waters of the Sound mingled with the main channel, and it was hard to see Tobermory through the drizzle. But eventually, things calmed down. We spotted the others again, and the jetty ahead. Liza decided we should make straight for the jetty.
We carried our boats up to the top as fast as possible, as a ferry sped in. Fortunately, it was a tour boat back from tiny Staffa island that went past to dock elsewhere. Tudor’s suggestion that we take the ferry back had majority support from us weaklings by this point.
We set off to look for the others and admire Tobermory, whose brightly painted houses in ice-cream colours look more Neapolitan than Hebridean. The Pier Café fish and chip shop’s kitchen was closing but they kindly stayed open a few more minutes. There’s nothing that doesn’t seem better after a bag of chips, and we waited eagerly for what turned out to be irresistibly chunky, skin-on fries.
Kenneth, Joanne, Rich and I opted to take the ferry back with Fiona leading our group, while the majority disappeared into the murk to paddle back from Mull’s north shore. They made it, and so did we. The ferry docked a few kilometres from Kilchoan, and we made our way back. It was a varied and enjoyable trip that tested my skills and proved there’s no substitute for time spent on the sea.
Distance: 31.8 km, about 25km for the slightly shorter trip with the ferry Duration: 8 hours, 30 minutes Average Speed: 3.7 km/h
Kilchoan is home to a small and active kayaking community which includes Geoff, one of the founding members of Chelsea Kayak Club, as well as Martin and Nicky who recently set up a small business in Kilchoan to produce Greenland paddles. Learning that we had a small group of Greenland paddlers and interested kayakers within CKC, we were therefore invited to join the weekly rolling and rescue session in Kilchoan harbour. The session was scheduled on a Wednesday evening, which happened to be upon the return from our overnight paddle and camping and meant that we were still tired, wet and cold from the day. Participants in the rolling and rescue session were Liza, Rich, Matt and myself, Jan.
The session was very effective, breaking down the movements of the standard Greenland roll into four simple steps which had to be followed in order to successfully put the boat upright. We started rolling in the grass with our respective sticks, before rolling in the grass with boats, and finally proceeding with rolling exercises in the water in pairs.
Liza who already was able to role proficiently prior to participating in the session, was able to replicate the basic Greenland roll in the water with ease. Rich was new to Greenland paddles and had not been able to routinely roll before; he learned quickly and soon managed to roll without assistance. Matt comes from white-water kayaking, an environment where rolling skills are crucial. Being used to flipping short white-water kayaks, Matt succeeded to flip his sea kayak forcefully, to the extent that he initially hip-flipped his boat into the upright and immediately back under water on the other side.
For my part, I’m excited about having learned and practiced the basic steps of the basic Greenland roll, hoping to not forget everything until the next time when we are on the water! In the meanwhile, I shall keep practicing on the grass.
A great thanks to Martin and Nicky for introducing us into the technique of rolling and their patience with us, and to the Kilchoan kayak club!
On the final day, a return sea crossing from Portuick to Muck was planned. After heading out and rafting up with the larger group for the final briefing just outside of Sanna Bay, a ‘b team’ of three (Philippe, Kenneth & Jo) was formed, who opted for an easier day sticking to close to the mainland around Sanna Bay and Ardamurchan Point.
After the group split, Philippe as the leader gave a mini briefing and we discussed what would happen if a rescue was required now the group was smaller.
We agreed to head back to Portuick and as we paddled back into the wind from the south, we were surprised by how far we had drifted out of Sanna bay. By the time we reached the start point, we had been paddling already for 1 hr 15 mins.
After a short break to stretch legs and have a snack in the sheltered area in the rocks amongst the seals, we ventured out again. Philippe suggested we stay close to the mainland where we would be most protected from the wind and head towards Ardamurchan Point, which we had passed in the opposite direction a couple of days before. We paddled into the next bay keeping clear of the waves at the base of the headland.
We crossed the next bay heading into the waves and found another brief respite behind some rocks. We continued towards the lighthouse and began to turn the corner at Armamurchan Point, at which point the waves were a bit larger and slightly more confused and Philippe did a risk assessment based on group size and experience and suggested we turn back.
On the return, we stuck closer to the shoreline and Philippe led, with Kenneth at the back of the group. This time, the waves were behind us and pushed us along, as we paddled back past the headland. Before too long we were back where we had started buoyed by our trip.
Although a short trip, there was plenty of scope for informal learning, both for me as the least experienced and for others, it gave the opportunity to lead a small group on the sea rather than the Thames. We discussed spotting potential hazards in the sea, such as rocks not visible beneath the surface of the water which may only cause a breaking wave only infrequently, and how to improve skills, such as turning more efficiently in waves by edging. We also considered trip preparation, such as taking maps of adjoining areas in case plans change and how the radio works when groups are spread out.
When packing up the boats, we were passed by a foursome who asked if we were the kayakers they had seen from the lighthouse. It turned out the group had been staying in a holiday cottage overlooking the bay and been observing CKCs kayaking exploits from afar all week and had many questions! Once the boats were packed up, I stayed on the beach for a swim and then an hour or so later watched as the rest of the group appeared in the distance from Muck.
Kilchoan blog – Friday 24 June 2022 – Isle of Muck
What is sea kayaking all about? Maybe it’s the wind in your face, saltwater spray, and the sound of breaking waves. Or perhaps it’s the camaraderie of being on the sea together and landing on a distant shore.
We had all these on our trip from the mainland at Portuairk, then 11km across the sea to the Isle of Muck and back.
Muck is the smallest of four main islands in the Small Isles, part of the Inner Hebrides of Scotland.
At our planning meeting the previous night, Geoff proposed the trip which was generally welcomed. Some felt that energy levels might be a little depleted and reserved their decision until the next day. The weather forecast was dry and sunny with winds of F3/F4. Crucially, the wind would be behind us on the way over but against us on the way back. 11km paddling into the wind, hmmm, what would that be like?
Friday came and 12 of us felt up to doing the trip. 10 from CKC plus Martin and Nicky from the local kayaking group. A final check of the weather forecast – no change – and the trip got the green light. There was a long portage from the cars at Portuairk to the water’s edge but at least it would be shorter on the way back as the tide would have risen. We would end up being very grateful for such small mercies.
A couple of kilometres from launching but still near the coast, Geoff halted the group and gave everyone a last chance to opt out of the crossing to Muck. Emphasis was placed on the wind being against us for the 11km trip back. Three decided to defer the crossing to another time, leaving nine of us, with Geoff’s words describing the trip “not dangerous but challenging” ringing in our ears.
The F3 wind behind us gave us a push across so that we got to Muck in about 2 hours. No breaking waves, just an easy following sea. Even when we stopped on the sea for a snack and stopped paddling, we drifted towards Muck. Easy peasy.
After landing at Muck, we repaired to the Isle of Muck tea room. What an oasis of culinary delight! Some high streets don’t have cafes this good, and yet we were on an island just a few kilometres long with a population of 27 (thank you Wikipedia).
We spent an hour chilling, eating and rehydrating before setting off for the return to the mainland. There had been talk of circumnavigating the island before heading back but as that would have added two hours to the paddling, we decided against it.
The wind against us was fun at first. Pointing a sea kayak into the waves and the bow crashing down the other side is exhilarating and doesn’t require the same skill as a big following sea. After about an hour’s paddling, I felt I had put in a lot of effort. So surely we must be half way back to Portuairk? We stopped for a breather and looked back at Muck. It still looked close! This would be hard.
We paddled for 3.5 hours into the wind. Whenever we stopped for a breather, unless we kept paddling the wind would push us back to Muck. It was salutary to think what towing would be like in these conditions – stop to put on the tow and all the time you’d be going backwards – then start towing when even paddling just your own boat was hard work.
The waves were starting to break a little, the wind had picked up since our crossing to Muck. About 2/3rds of the way back, the wind eased greatly, “ahh” we thought, “the hard bit’s over, what a relief.” A little while later the wind came back stronger than ever, making progress so slow that it was difficult to believe we weren’t at a standstill.
Eventually we got to Portuairk and the welcome shorter carry back to the cars now the tide was in. Sea kayakers must be a strange, somewhat masochistic lot – we all agreed it was a great day!
