Last weekend we had a great turnout of fourteen for a surf skills trip on the Gower in South Wales. Previous attempts to organise a surf skills trip had been postponed because of poor conditions – too calm the first two times on the South coast, and then too rough on the Gower in the autumn. This time, however, the weather worked out and we had a successful trip.
Liza arranged accommodation for us in the Eastern Slade Barn, and we converged there on Friday night, having picked up boats, equipment and passengers at the arches. On arrival Yossi prepared an amazing vegetarian focaccia for everyone, accompanied by Gilly’s fantastic foraged salad.
Yossi’s Famous Focaccia
On Saturday we drove to Caswell Bay to meet the local coaches – Chris, Kay and Paul from Vale Paddle Sports. It was just past full tide, and Chris confirmed the swell of 30-60cm would be good for learning to surf. We unloaded the boats and Chris talked us through surfing in to shore – waiting perpendicular to the waves and when a wave comes, paddle very fast (“PLF”) trying to stay perpendicular. If the boat starts to turn, it’s almost impossible to keep on track, and the boat turns parallel to the wave but by low-bracing in the incoming wave one can stay upright and “Bongo slide” in to the shore.
Bongo Bandit #1
Bongo Bandit #2
We practised this, taking it in turns to surf in to the beach and paddle out again, with Kay helping to retrieve those of us who capsized, and Chris and Paul giving pointers and demonstrations from their kayaks. At times we had to share the beach with groups of surfers or swimmers, but the retreating tide gave more space.
Rock Hopping
As the surf was diminishing, after retrieving our lunch from the cars, Chris suggested we paddle out to Pwlldu (pronounced “puffty”) headland for which we split into two groups, rock-hopping below the cliffs. We sheltered from the wind at the edge of the beach as we ate our lunch, and were joined by Alex and Olwen who’d been kayaking in the tide race further East. After lunch we split into three groups, each led by CKC members. One group returned to our start point, and the other two first paddled across the bay and around the headland to Langland Bay where we were able to practise some more surfing.
Finally we paddled back to Caswell Bay and as it was now low tide, we had a long portage up the beach, helped by kayak trolleys. We were done by 4pm and had time to return to the bunk house for a shower before going to the Ship Inn at Port Eynon for dinner and drinks, followed by a discussion of forecasts and plans for the next day.
Rhossili Beach
The next morning we had time to have an excellent full cooked breakfast and finalised a plan to practice our skills on the west-facing Rhossili beach. We packed up and left the bunk house, driving to Hill End car park where we portaged our boats through the dunes to find a wide beach with plenty of surfers enjoying the substantial surf.
As we assembled near the water’s edge, the surf seemed quite intimidating. The more experienced members explained how to paddle out through larger waves – getting as much speed as possible, holding the paddle pointing into the wave to cut through it, and keeping your face protected in case the wave does catch the paddle. Rich managed to get through the waves, but for the rest of us the surf was too high and after a couple of capsizes the rest of us paddled South through the shallows to where the waves were smaller. There we had fun trying to get out through the breakers and then surf back in without tipping over. After an hour or so we paddled and portaged back to the cars and headed home, exhausted but happy to have had a great weekend of paddling and learning.
Thanks to Liza for planning and organizing the trip and to everyone else for making the trip work out – from car-sharing and transporting boats to cooking.
All the Bongo Bandits
You can watch a short video of the CKC South Wales Surf Weekend here:
Winter paddling is not for everyone, so it was great to have a group of enthusiastic CKC paddlers getting out on the sea today!
We were all relatively experienced paddlers who were familiar with each other on the water from a few trips together last year. However a Solent crossing is a paddling route not to be sniffed at. So the leaders had put a lot of effort into planning a detailed route ensuring the timings and hazards were well signposted and well considered.
Launching at Lepe Country Park is an expensive but easy place for a launch as well as having great facilities for breakfast bacon butties, as well as toilets.
It was flat calm looking from Lepe to West of Cowes on an overcast grey and quiet Solent. We set off on the bearing of 150 degrees in order to counteract the tidal flow pushing us Eastwards. Keeping as a tight group, so we could be seen easily by other crafts, we reached the first destination at Egypt Point/Gunard buoy after about 30 minutes.
Gurnard Buoy
The next potential hazard was to cross Eastwards the Cowes harbour entrance on the north side of the breakwater. Just after deciding to cross the entrance a large ferry suddenly appeared coming out of Cowes so we duly had to increase our paddle power to get out of it’s way.
Crossing Cowes Harbour, avoiding the fast cat
Crossing Cowes Harbour
The next 1 ½ hours were calm active paddling to Old Castle Point and across Osbourne Bay (with a view of Queen Victoria’s residence, Osbourne House) ensuring we kept out of the bay itself to gain as much of the dropping flow as possible. It was very empty of the usual chaos of numerous yachties mooring there for their boozy lunches, and we only saw the occasional ship passing.
Osbourne House
The entrance to Wootton Creek is not at all easy to identify in the bay especially on a grey winters day. However having the fantastic resource of the ferry that goes in and out from Wootton Creek, it helpfully pinpointed the entrance for us. We landed at the small beach next to the ferry terminal and hauled our boats onto the grass for lunch.
Wootton Creek
A most lovely Sunday pub lunch was had at The Fishbourne pub, a short walk up from the slipway and beach. We also had a good rest while waiting for the flow to pick up for our return trip. It was pretty hard to re-don our dry suits and get back in our boats after the cosy atmosphere of the pub though.
The trip back was again well executed with the Wootton Creek ferry the first thing to be negotiated.
Wootton Creek Ferry
The wind was more behind us and the flow helping us along fantastically. The essential part was to cross back over the Solent missing the hazard zone of the container ship turning area and paddling at an angle which ensured that we would not overshoot our destination at Lepe. The flow had picked up a bit more than the plan had been set for so we set the new route degrees to 360/0 from Egypt Point. For paddlers who have never experienced tidal flow like this, it is quite a surprise when you turn into it and realise the importance on keeping on the course you have been set to get across the channel correctly! For those without compasses on board clear markers ahead were given to aim for. It is essential that the lead communicates these markers / identifiers correctly and if they are changed that this is communicated to everyone.
On the way back
We were quite tired by now so it was a bit of surprise when nearly fully across that we had to navigate an area of overfall while crossing Lepe Spit leading to quite turbulent water, but made it an exciting end to our trip.
Tired but happy paddlers
Well done everyone for getting on the sea today! Achy bones and muscles for unfit desk-bound paddlers were very evident in the following days!
Mike also had a new voice activated Go Pro he was trying out and made the following video of the trip:
It was so good to get back on the river yesterday, and in my case to experience paddling a different part of the Thames. I have had one outing in the dark from Kew to Richmond and so I was curious to see it in the light and Richmond lock at high water with the sluice gates raised.
We all went to the pub for Sunday lunch!
Richmond to Teddington was entertaining with music and sounds of merriment from the rugby crowd enjoying riverside pre match refreshments. The warm glow of the fairy lights in the trees at Twickenham was very alluring against the grey sky.
Sunday morning started with a car shuttle as we were planning a one-way trip. One of our more experienced paddlers later commented “a car shuttle is the most difficult thing you can do in kayaking”. However, it had all been worked out on a napkin in the pub the night before and by luck or logistics, boats, cars, kit and people all ended up in the right place.
Due to winds of Force 4-5 on the coast our plan for the day was to start in Wareham and paddle out to Poole Harbour via the River Frome. After some last-minute bacon sandwiches and a briefing by Liza, we paddled under Wareham Bridge and down river through whistling reed beds and past house boats, to emerge into Poole Harbour.
As we entered the harbour, the wind picked up with much more challenging paddling conditions. We attempting to hug the harbour banks but were outwitted by an outgoing tide and low water that meant we had to head into the more exposed central channel.
At this point, the more experienced paddlers offered lots of encouragement and tips to the newer kayakers creating a lovely supportive environment as we battled the wind. After a brief pause to help some sailors with a broken rudder, we found deep water along the coast of Arne RSPB reserve. The harbour was a great contrast to our previous day on the coast with the surrounding lands and islands comprising of pine trees and heathland.
We had a brief lunch stop on a small beach with the more adventurous amongst us heading up in the trees. Fruit cake was shared around before we re-launched for the afternoon paddle.
We wound our way around the channels of Poole Harbour, skirting Brownsea Island, admiring the nature and some beautiful luxury homes. The wind stayed strong but everyone did well in making progress with more coaching and tips thrown in.
A “leg-stretch” and loo break was appreciated on another beautiful beach before the final round of the headland and into Studland. There we were met by David who had spent the day keeping Lola the dog company. Once the boats were loaded, we had a quick de-brief on a fantastic weekend before starting our journeys home.
This is the delayed May 2022 trip to Bournemouth. Although it sounds like a train announcement we all went by car, meeting at The Arches on a cold September morning at 8am (although some were very keen and had been there an hour beforehand).
We all arrive at Alum Chine at the same time mid-morning and load the boats onto the trolleys to get down to the sandy beach. After a safety briefing on the beach we launched at 11:50am in force three wind with small waves that got bigger as we headed further out. Initially we headed for Isle of Wight which we can see on the horizon, and then for Hengistbury Head once we are out in the tidal flow. We make good progress, rounding the head in about an hour and a half.
Around the head we cross over the harbour entrance at Christchurch and then land at Avon Beach in front of the Noisy Lobster restaurant. While most of us have brought sandwiches or light refreshments for lunch, Rich decides to go large ordering chips and scampi from the outside kiosk. All freshly cooked but a long wait to arrive. Luckily some of us were able to entertain themselves practicing headstands in the cockpits!
On beach before launch, we can see Old Harry, Isle of Wight and Poole. After lunch we retraced our route back to Alum Chine across Bournemouth Bay, rounding Hengistbury Head where a small tide race was developing.
Around the head, the wind (F3) was directly in our faces, which means that it is hard work for about 15 minutes into Bournemouth Bay but then eases off as we get protection. Jenifer has adjusted her foot pegs at lunch and now is much faster even against the wind. Paddling along the coast close to Bournemouth we meet a RNLI person on a jet ski with a rear platform to rescue people. Luckily we don’t need his services and continue passed funicular railways and loads of beach huts.
Passing Bournemouth Pier we have a group picture in front of the helter-skelter at the end of the pier.
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Arriving back at Alum Chine we all agree that the trip was very enjoyable and we find that it is Phil‘s first time on the sea, Jenefer‘s first time out on the sea with the club (and the most she has paddled in a day) and Rich’s second time out with his new boat. So a very memorable trip for everyone!
It didn’t start that auspiciously, arriving in the dark, traveling through an apocalyptic rain storm and then my car battery conking out when I arrived, it was starting to feel like a bad idea! But then Saturday morning dawned, the sun was out, the wind dropped and Ringstead beach as a launch site beckoned. It was totally idyllic, the biggest headache was working out what to wear so we didn’t get too hot. After a short walk down from the car park and a full safety and trip briefing we launched straight off the beach and headed off eastwards, aiming to reach Lulworth Cove for lunch.
We played in some of the rocks around the headland from Ringstead, looking for the swells and gaps and practising our skills. Some went straight in for full thrills, others took it more cautiously, easing into the thrills, but regardless of experience, there was something for everyone, and the leaders encouragement helped build confidence and stopped any hesitation.
We were making good progress to Durdle Door, but before we reached the bay itself we had to pass through the Tolkien-like Bat’s Hole, a tiny sea arch only accessible by kayak, you paddle through and pop out into the next bay, next to the impressive Butter Rock stack.
Once through we carried on paddling towards Durdle Door. The arch doesn’t reveal itself when you approach from the sea until you pass it and turn back, then you’re faced with a really spectacular viewpoint, the full arch with beach behind, the reward unique to sea travellers. We all had the chance to paddle through the arch in the twinkling sunshine cresting the gentle swell, and then headed round to the next bay, Lulworth Cove.
But before we reached it we passed the intriguing entrance to Stair Hole sea cave so went to explore only to find ourselves joined by some free-climbers as one by one we paddled in, had a good look round and came back out. The incredible rock formations you can see when you paddle through the cave are aptly named the Lulworth Crumple, and having a sea eye view gives a unique perspective on this part of the coast.
We carried on round to Lulworth for lunch once Liza and David had performed an assisted rescue for Johnathan who had decided to try his luck on a wave breaking into the cove. After lunch and added ice creams we headed back in the afternoon sunshine watching the paragliders catching the winds off the top of the enormous white cliffs as we paddled past.
We took the opportunity to do more rock hopping on the way back, confidence boosted amongst those of us who needed it, and the more expert paddlers spotting the more challenging bits and having a go.
At last we came round the headland with our end point in sight, a last push got us back to the beach, sun heading towards its ending we landed and loaded. I had an amazing day, had the chance to make new friends and improve my confidence and ability in a safe and enjoyable way. The day was rounded off with a successful jump start thanks to magic gadget Rich, followed by dinner and a pint in the Bankes Arms, Corfe Castle. A lovely end to a perfect day.
If you enjoyed this blog, we also made a video of this day, which you can find here: Jurassic Coast October 2022 – YouTube or click play below (about 7 mins long):
We launched east of Lymington, passing through the New Forest on the way to the launch and see wild horses, cows and surprisingly loads of donkeys just wandering around the roads. The launch site was where a single track lane meets the sea at a shingle beach. The beach, near high water is covered but shallow, so the water drops quickly as the tide starts to move to LW. Parking is feasible if squashed against the hedges, so we kept the cars in the lane, but a more gung-ho Land Rover driver got stuck in the shingle while we are getting ready. We didn’t pay too much attention to that because from the beach we could just see the Needles in the distance.
We launched at HW+3hrs on Neaps without difficulty and no mud – good news! Very little wind (F2) and no waves, almost flat and full sun all day.
We followed the coast along to Lymington with some flow behind. Get to the marker ‘Jack in the Basket’ outside the harbour then cross the harbour entrance between multiple yachts and motor boats, without incident. Crossing the Solent we aim to Fort Victoria for about half the distance – then change direction to Fort Albert.
Fort Albert
We stop for a short rest on the water at Fort Albert, and find the water is quite clapotic with reflected boat wash. While adjusting maps I found myself going backwards, which was surprising since the plan had anticipated a tidal push towards the Needles for a further hour.
As a result we reached the Needles a bit later than planned and around Goose Rock (the end point of the Needles) there was a clear and strong eddy line developing.
Rounding the Needles we headed for the lunch spot at Scratchells Bay, under the huge white cliffs.
Lunch is finished off with Cathy’s flap jacks, individually wrapped in paper. There is no surf when leaving the shingle beach so we head over to Sun Corner to look in the cave with a beach in the back. There is enough room for two kayaks to get in at a time (backwards), and the cliff seems huge when up so close to it.
Heading back we went through the second gap at the Needles (smaller one) with water pushing us through.
We get a big push from the tidal stream (~1.8 knots) back upto Fort Albert, making it from the Needles in 35 minutes – which had taken 75 minutes on the way there! It also helped that the wind has picked up to F3 and was now directly behind us.
A cargo ship passed us as we approached Fort Albert and a few minutes after it passed we got a lot of waves (0.5m) in quick succession, again with reflections from the fort walls causing clapotic conditions. Reversing the outward route we made good time and once we loaded the boats it allowed us to have another individually wrapped flap jack before heading back to the Arches with the boats. Another fantastic day on the water!
This was my first trip on the sea after completing my Explore course in July. I was concerned about being able to complete the distance – estimated at 27 kilometres (around 14 nautical miles); after all, if you are doing a circumnavigation, it’s key that you can complete the trip. I checked with the Leader, Liza, with whom I had paddled one Thursday evening, and she didn’t predict any problems. And, indeed, there weren’t any! By the end of the day I was only slightly more tired than some of the more strenuous Thames paddles I have been on (plus Liza had a fallback plan should anyone struggle with the distance). Hey, if I can do this – you can too!
And this was a smashing introduction to sea kayaking. We started at Langstone Bridge, heading under the road bridge (with some fabulous struts that would make a great slalom course), across the old railway bridge, then, to the sound of oystercatchers, up the Langstone channel; most of this paddling this is very similar to Thames paddling.
Once we passed Eastney, we were in the sea proper: the force 3 created some good waves that weren’t too exciting, just what I wanted on my first trip as it gave me the experience of being raised on a wave and put down facing a different direction: hmm.
The sailing club was out in force around the tip of Chichester spit: there were 180 yachts racing and they presented some intriguing & picturesque views. Occasionally one was tacking towards us (well, sometimes a bunch of them) but we stuck together and they missed us. We made the Hayling Island Sailing Club beach ahead of schedule so had a prolonged lunch.
On the peaceful paddle back up the Emsworth channel – once again like a Thames paddle – we spotted a large hairy seal basking on the beach: quite a sight.
Our landing back at Langstone Bridge once again avoided the dreaded mud and, having packed up, headed to the The Ship Inn for some welcome drinks. Well, that’s whetted my appetite for more sea kayaking!
My first sea kayaking trip with CKC to Dartmouth… and it couldn’t have been more perfect! Arriving Friday night to the best camp site – Sea View – in Slapton, run by a lovely family. This is a regular campsite for CKC when paddling here with great amenities making it very comfortable and it was beautifully spacious and quiet. Giving the space and peace for a good night’s sleep to recoup between paddles.
The first paddle along Dartmouth’s estuary to the sea was a delight, and very interesting maneuvering around a busy harbour that happened to be full with a vintage boat regatta, and the ferries to avoid. All great skill practice!
There were views from the sea that can’t be seen from land – castles and mermaids (really!), deserted coves, caves to explore and rock hopping galore.
Castle and Mermaid (and seagull)!
We enjoyed a good mix of sea conditions: calm, slightly choppy, calm, windy. All great experience, we took our time and stopped in coves for lunch, swimming, sunbathing and practicing self rescue and assisted rescues and lots of practice with paddling skills around the rocks.
My favourite day was paddling out of the estuary to The Mew Stone where we spent lots of time with the Atlantic grey seals who where very mischievous sniffng our boats and playing with the stern toggles and swimming under our boats, an experience I will never forget!
I got lots of encouragement and skill sharing from Fiona and built up my confidence moving around through and across the rocks using the swell to help me across. I had lots of advice to help me get more out of my next trip so I can be even better prepared, develop my skills and knowledge to be able to support our peer paddles in the future. Great company with the CKC crew and some good meals and drinks together in beautiful Slapton village with a pleasant walk there and back to help rebalance the sea legs! Can’t wait for next visit!!!! In fact I’m still in Slapton at the camp site a week later as don’t want to leave!
Saturday we went from Dartmouth to Blackpool Sands and back. Winds F2 and sea calm except for boat wash.
Sunday we went from Dartmouth to Mew Stone and round Pudcombe Cove for lunch, rest and self rescue practices.
On this morning of our West highland adventure we were to wake up in our tents on a headland known as Sanna Point on the North coast of the Ardnamurchan Peninsula. We were in thick mist and cloud which was very atmospheric and part of the Scottish experience.
Looking back on this day it is good to reflect that not all days will be about moving forward on day trips, having a beach lunch and getting from A to B as planned, but can also be about gaining learning from the different potential and real incidents that occur. On this day the day did not go as planned and we had four main learning points.
Towing an empty boat. Firstly unfortunately one of the group was not feeling very well and did not feel able to get into his kayak and paddle. Deciding to walk back to the basecamp meant we had to tow his empty kayak back to Portuairk before we headed East for the day. Towing an empty kayak is not always straight forward if the weather conditions are a bit challenging – which they were starting to be. Anyway it was achieved by Jan taking the main tow and Rich holding the boat steady with a tow line at the back with Liza supporting them and acting as the communication link between them. We’d not done this for real in windy conditions before, so was a very useful learning experience. It was also very positive that the communication, planning and execution all worked effectively.
We met with some others of our group at Portuairk, then headed off together on our trip for the day.
TRAK kayak in choppy swell and windy conditions. The swell and wind were building a bit, F3 as we moved out of Sanna Bay. One of the group with his own foldable kayak that fits in a large bag, a TRAK (TRAK®: Ocean Sea Kayaks – Portable Performance Kayaks For Sale (trakkayaks.com), was struggling to keep straight in his kayak.
He had used the hydraulics system to ‘improve‘ his rocker in a way that looked like he was sitting in the middle of an extremely U-shaped banana! No wonder he could not steer the boat easily. Once he had shifted the rocker hydraulics to be flatter he was able to make some better headway. These kayaks do not have a skeg so will always be challenging to handle in bouncy sea conditions with strong wind.
Rescue of capsized paddler. The group was just about to pass through some rocky islets with waves breaking onto the rocks, when one of our group capsized. We immediately split the group with one person taking the majority of the paddlers to a calm inlet. Meanwhile the paddler in the water and their boat was towed out of the rocky islet so that an assisted rescue could be performed, without the risk of being pushed onto the rocks.
While the rescue was successful and neatly executed, we could see that an excess amount of rope in the water that had been used for towing could have made this rescue a lot more difficult. Once the paddler was back in the boat they needed time to recuperate and also get changed.
After this, the situation was reassessed and the decision made with the current weather and sea conditions that the rescued kayaker would struggle to continue with the day’s trip plan and we headed back to Portuairk.
VHF radio communication. The main group had also re-assessed the weather and sea conditions and decided to abandon the day’s trip also. This was effectively communicated on the radio so that all the group understood the situation and were all able to land safely at Portuairk, without re-grouping first.
