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An anti-clockwise circumnavigation of the Isle of Wight over the Easter holiday weekend covering 97.5km in 2.5 days, including crossing The Solent twice, some wild camping and a few Easter eggs.
Leaving the Good Friday traffic behind, the CKC expedition slipped into the harbour at Keyhaven mid afternoon under blue skies and gentle winds (F2).
Following the winding course through the Keyhaven Lake tidal marshes to the harbour entrance, we came alongside Henry VIII’s massively long Hurst Castle. Where the harbour water and the Solent met, the well-known tidal race (called the Trap) had formed, jostling us for a few minutes as we crossed it into the smoother main flow of The Solent’s west channel. In the distance we could see the iconic The Needles and with a relatively strong tidal flow assisting us, headed south westerly to Hatherwood Point at the top of Alum Bay. In Alum Bay the wind dropped to F1 and the sea took on a glassy look:
After examining the famous marmotino multi-coloured cliffs and chair lift of Alum Bay we continued south west along the White Cliffs and saw some strange holes in the cliff face:
It wasn’t long before we reached The Needles and as the winds were light, we were able to go around the lighthouse, get some fabulous pictures and take a closer look at the white rock face:
The rock face here is made from the same material as at South Purbeck, which the CKC team had visited a few weeks earlier, including Old Harry’s Rock, The Little Pinnacle and Pinnacle. It was amazing to think that all these cliffs were made up from the shells (coccoliths) of small sea organisms called coccolithophores, millions of years ago in the Jurassic period. Somewhat fittingly, these organisms look like tiny Easter eggs under the microscope! The next expedition planned by CKC is to the Jurassic Coast to investigate the composition and erosion of these cliffs further (and to do some paddling in world class scenery).
At Sun Rock we also saw the bedding plane lines folded upwards to form a monocline ridge, although it really looked like someone had just drawn parallel lines on the rock:
After we turned the corner at Sun Rock it was time to put in some serious paddling. So far we had had a tidal stream assist of about 3 knots to cover the 9km to The Needles, now we would have less than 1 knot and still needed to cover 14km before sunset to get to our campsite at Grange Farm, near Brighstone.
Although we were able to do that in plenty of time, we hadn’t counted on the walk up the 30m cliff with all our kit to get to the campsite. However, once there and set up in our tents, we had fantastic views of the coastline we had just paddled, as well as the coastline we would paddle tomorrow.
We ate fish and chips in front of our tents (from the mobile van that visits the camp site every Friday) and when we thought an excellent day’s paddling couldn’t get better, watched a huge red full moon appear on the horizon and slowly rise.
On Easter Saturday, we set off with some trepidation to round St Catherine’s Point due to the tide races that form here, and can be very large on springs. Initially with NE F3 winds we were protected by the island and made good progress, covering the 10km to the point quickly. At the point we experienced some limited tidal race conditions as well as some clapotis from the reflected waves, but everything well within the group’s abilities.
Harder work was the paddle to Ventnor against both the tide and wind. At Ventnor, we took a break spending the afternoon with the holidaymakers on the beach, while waiting for the tide to turn in our favour:
On departure from Ventnor, we found the winds had dropped to F2 and with the tidal stream now in our favour were able to round Dunnose to Shanklin, then head directly across Sandown Bay to Culver Cliff. The winds dropped further to F1 and tracking across Whitecliff Bay we came across rock ledges and breaking water close to the shoreline. Rounding the headland at Bembridge we started to search for locations to wild camp for the night. Putting in at Bembridge Beach through a gap in the ledges, we were treated to a magnificent sunset (see below) and shortly after putting up tents and cooking, to another unbelievably massive red moonrise.
Easter Sunday started, as all good Easter Sundays do, with Easter eggs. Both from our own collection and from some given to use by locals on the beach early in the morning. Leaving Bembridge in light winds (F1) and sunshine, we made good time to Ryde and with the high water, were able to cross the Ryde Sands without difficulty. Arriving at Ryde, the main hazard was to dodge the hovercraft zipping in and out of the port, sometimes moving sideways:
Heading under the pier and on towards Osbourne House in the distance, meant that we were able to stop on a small beach for lunch before rounding the corner to Cowes. At Cowes, dodging more shipping traffic to cross the harbour entrance, we started to cross to the north side of The Solent to Lymington with the strong tidal flow. Once more dodging the shipping traffic, we crossed the harbour entrance to see Hurst Castle on the horizon in the hazy sunshine. A final push got us back to Keyhaven, just in time for an evening meal in the sunshine of the beer garden at the local pub, The Gun Inn.
We had really needed those Easter eggs to help us cover 39km on the last day (along with some tidal assistance)!
Snowy the Dog Takes Up Kayaking
Well, we say kayaking but he was doing more navigating than paddling, and still enjoying himself nonetheless.
While Snowy was channelling his inner Montmorency from Three Men in a Boat, the rest of the CKC team were on a weekend trip to Poole Harbour in late March 2019. The team was neatly divided into two groups: those with limited experience on the sea and those with some experience, plus two dogs: Snowy and Lola (of varying abilities).
Using the CKC kayaks, paddles and equipment brought down from Kew Bridge, the ‘novice group’ spent two days practicing basic paddle strokes and techniques as well as performing their first assisted and self rescues.
Based on the south side of Poole Harbour for the weekend, it really was the perfect calm and safe environment for taking the first steps beyond beginner paddles on the Thames. Initially, beach based coaching was conducted by CKC sea leader Paul, assisted by Will from the Cardiff Whitewater Centre. Before moving on to the sea to practice paddle strokes and manoeuvring.
Meanwhile the more experienced group headed through the Poole Harbour entrance and then South across Studland Bay over to Old Harry’s Rock. Although the sky was grey the temperature was 11C with a north easterly wind of F2. With the tide high we were able to paddle through arches in the Handfast headland:
Although sometimes it looked a bit too narrow to be possible, we were still able to get through without difficulty:
Further South we visit the Little Pinnacle and Pinnacle (chalk stacks), although the Little Pinnacle might just have been far away, as they were certainly big enough when we got close:
We backed our boats into several sea caves to hear the loud reverberations of the pebbles being rattled by the waves.
We head further south towards Ballard Point at the north end of Swanage Bay, before turning back to visit Old Harry’s Rock before the ebb gains full momentum which causes tidal races off Handfast Point. As expected, the water level had dropped so it was not possible to go back through arches, so we pass between the mainland with Old Harry and Old Harry’s Wife on our right, with waves pushing us through the gap.
Back in the cottage for the evening, we see the enormous Brittany Ferries ship pass silently out of the harbour, lit up. We plan the next day’s trip, and cap off the day with a shot of Jura whisky in front of fire.
On Sunday, the grey skies were gone leaving a total blue sky. Which just seemed the right time to across Poole Harbour to the River Frome estuary and follow the river to Wareham for lunch, which got everyone excited:
Initially there was a head wind (F2-3) for the first hour which meant some focused paddling was needed to get us around the Arne Peninsular. After that the estuary closed in and slowed down, with long brown reeds lining the river all the way to Wareham.
An enjoyable weekend was had by all, but the main thing was that Snowy agreed.
CKC off to see Flamingos hosted by Palavas kayak club on 15/16 Sept 2018
After a conversation about whether or not there were flamingos in Europe, Corinne, a CKC member based in France, organised for CKC members to join Palavas kayak club along with paddlers from Marseille for the weekend.
We had two fabulous days of kayaking exploring the inland water ways, including the huge saline ponds where the flamingos live, and canalised navigable channels, and the sea.
 Palavas is on the south coast of France, just west of the Camargue. After a short portage on Saturday we reached a sandy beach for lunch. 
After lunch about 50% of the group did a simultaneous roll!
As we returned on the first day we happened to pass by a traditional boat Jousting match!
 On the second day we were able to try out Palavas’ 6 person Pirouge and a surf ski. Both were great fun to try. 
Huge thanks are due to Fabian and others at the Palavas club for organising a wonderful weekend and welcoming us so warmly.
And yes – there are flamingos in Europe!
Pegwell Bay – 23 February 2019
In association with Rob from South East Kayaking (SEK), members of CKC joined his trip across Pegwell Bay, South of Ramsgate in late February 2019. It turned out to be an absolutely stunning winter’s day with clear blue skies and warm temperatures (for winter at least) and very little wind.
After arriving through an improbably long tunnel to Ramsgate Harbour, we met up with people from SEK. Rob was keen to show off his collection of Rockpool sea kayaks (5 out of the 11 boats that day were Rockpools). Rockpools are surely stunning to look at, but at least one hatch has to be filled with cotton wool that is put out before landing, so the fibreglass doesn’t get scratched.
At about 12.30pm we were off crossing Pegwell Bay. Wind was Force 2 maximum and often a lot less. With bright sunshine and 14C it was definitely a day for hats and sunglasses.
After about one hour we were across Pegwell Bay and started up the River Stour estuary. We saw a colony of seals and the younger ones were very curious. We floated quietly and they came very close to take a look at us, with one trying to nibble at the toggle on the back of one of the kayaks:
We followed the River Stour up for about a kilometre and then headed back across Pegwell Bay via a replica Viking ship, doing a bit of exploring of the caves in the chalk cliffs on the way. A very simple, enjoyable trip with fabulous weather – a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon!
New Year’s Day Paddle – 1 January 2019
Meeting up at 10am on New Year’s Day may have seemed a foolish idea to some, but turned out to be a perfect way to start the New Year – with a paddle from Kew to Twickenham and back with a pub lunch in between.
With an amazing temperature of 8C we set off at a steady pace. With the water levels relatively high we were able to paddle over the Richmond Bridge barrier and continue along to meet the non-paddling CKC members who still wanted a pub lunch. So we had an odd combination of normally dressed people and those in dry suits:
After lunch the skies started to threaten over Petersham, so we made our way back down to Richmond. A large group of people had collected on the Surrey side of the river before Twickenham Bridge. On closer inspection, they were all looking at a seal eating a fish that flashed in the sunlight. Contentedly eating her fish, she paid no attention to us as we floated passed on the slight tidal flow. You can just see her in the centre in the picture below:
As we approached Kew Bridge at twilight, the skies cleared and the Thames was absolutely calm with a beautiful silvery glow; just like the people who had successfully completed their first paddle of the year.
Wishing all the members of the Chelsea Kayak Club a year that is as peaceful and calm as the Thames was on the first day of the year.
Dave, Tudor and Fiona convened at Kew at 8.30am on Sat 8th September. We loaded up and then launched from Burpham (near Guildford) ~10.30am along river Wey & Wey navigation and then joined the river Thames at Shepperton. In total we did 12 portages before landing at Kew, and got very efficient at doing them!
As Dave had mentioned in his briefing email there was nothing difficult on any part of the trip, just that it would be several hours of paddling with the benefits of river flow, wind and tide assisting us along the way. Four years ago when Dave previously ran the trip there was stronger river flow to assist the journey, but due to the lack of rain this year, we received little if any fluvial flow. So we landed thoroughly exhausted & pleased with our 30mile paddling achievement at Kew at 8.30pm.
The trip goes past beautiful countryside, including a ruined priory, private gardens, narrow boats with their beautiful paintwork, moored boats, mansions, various club buildings for watersports. The river Wey has some narrow sections which feel very rural and remote, before widening and reducing again. In comparison the Thames feels bigger and “grander” with a constant stream of walkers enjoying the Thames path.
Lovely Chichester harbour paddle on Sun 19 August. We selected the extensive harbour area as a safe option, given the forecast was for F5 winds from the west.
We launched from Bosham, and discovered that there are both Chichester harbour conservancy fees, and also Bosham slipway fee. Because Bosham has an all-state-of-tide slip way, they also operate a levy. So we set off ~£7 lighter! At some points we could just catch a bit of wind using our paddles! We reached the estuary finger, where is was possible, as though by magic to see through a gap in the trees to the Chichester Cathedral spire.
Then back past Dell Quay, against flow and headwind we landed in West Itchenor to have a break & enjoy an icecream from a brilliantly placed icecream van.
We saw loads of birds – including oyster catchers, egret (see below), swans, Terns, Curlew, Redshank and Shelducks, amongst others.
Thanks to Olwen for her good company.
An email went out to the club on the Sunday 29 July when it poured with rain to see who was around a week later & interested to paddle. Wonderfully – Sunday 5th August turned out to be a lovely sunny day. Liza, Tudor & Fiona met to load up boats at Kew at 8am to head down to Eastbourne and join Paul. We set off at low tide (approx. 11am) after luckily securing car parking places in the carpark next to the Wish Tower slip way. We were lucky with the weather – sunny, and force 2-3 winds.
At low tide it was good to see a fair amount of the ledges which run away from Beachy Head cliffs and to the east of the headland underneath the sea. These ledges create a bit of chop, and then once we were over them the sea completely flattened.
The scenery is magnificent as the Beachy head lighthouse, then the extent of the soaring white cliffs come into view, then the lighthouse on the cliffs, and finally Birling Gap. We were surprised to see no body on the beach at Birling Gap, save for two walkers on the beach. It turned out that there had been a major slump of the rocks and so the access to the beach had been closed.
We therefore had a blissfully quiet lunch where some of us chose the shade from the steps & others continued enjoying the lovely sunshine. On our way back, the land access to Beachy Head lighthouse was covered over, and we were able to see that the lighthouse door was closed.
We paddled back over the ledges and noticed they were not generating the amount of chop expected given it was now wind against tide. The gold dome on Eastbourne’s pier gleamed as we rounded the corner, and soon the Wish Tower became distinguishable, amongst the much taller buildings which look over the sea front.
We got back before our car parking tickets ran out (!), loaded up boats & then enjoyed an ice-cream, from one of several kiosks on the sea front.
During the day we had F2 winds from the east, a flat sea state, and the maximum flow we were going to have was ~1 knot. The flow started to flow to the east at 12 noon.
All in all, a happy paddle.
Harwich for the continent, Margate for the incontinent – as the saying goes. So Harwich it was. Four of us – Philippa, Richard, Liza and I – had been lured by the Essex backwaters, described by folk who know as one of the last wild places in southern England.
Our weekend had been prefaced by day after day of roasting hot weather and flat calm so I had visions of rolling lazily to cool off. It was not to be. On the Friday night soon after I reached the Castle Inn where we were camping the site turned into a scene that would have done credit to a King Lear production – lightning played over the roofs, the wind moaned in the trees and the heavens opened.
I tried to remember an article about kayak safety in lightning storms which had circulated on Facebook a few weeks previously. Fortunately, however, the problem did not emerge. In the morning the sky had cleared, and from Harwich beach the national nature reserve at Horsey Island which we aimed to go round looked like a relaxing paddle.
We had reckoned without the wind. It hadn’t dropped. With much of the east coast the big problem is mud which, if you get stuck on it, is, at best, inconvenient, and, at worst, lethal. Our plan depended on getting through the shallow channels at Horsey soon after high water at 1pm. But after half an hour of paddling into the teeth of a 30mph headwind it was obvious we had no chance of reaching the island on schedule. Time for a rethink.
The big estuaries with their mouths at Felixstowe and Harwich were the obvious fall back. We loaded up the kayaks and launched higher up the Stour. It was Swallows and Amazons territory – with a river over a mile wide, tributaries to explore, and a choice of waterside pubs for when we finished playing. But as the tide fell and the river narrowed, the expanses of mud grew wider. We found an extra gear, and our gentle potter got quicker and more determined as we headed for solid ground. Then it was time for fish and chips which we ate while watching the river turn into a narrow trickle.
Sunday was just as stormy so we headed up the Deben valley. Trees hung over the river, fishermen and houses were absent, warblers darted into the reeds while herons looked on suspiciously, and a swimmer heading our way was one of the few people we saw. Around a corner a mill appeared, so lovely it could have been a painting. Then the penny dropped – we were passing Flatford Mill made famous by Constable.
Now it’s a National Trust property and suddenly we were surrounded by hordes of visitors. Not sure I was pleased to see them but the luxuries of a National Trust tea room compensated.
And that was that. It was back to the cars, away from Constable country, and away from the throngs come to worship.
Meanwhile, Horsey Island remains to be explored – as does the weird and strange spit of land that is Orford Ness. Tides look good for the weekend of 29-30 September, and the Castle Inn remains a convivial campsite.
I’m going back. Anyone fancy joining me?
Dartmouth trip – 28th June – 1 July 2018
CKC returned to Dartmouth at the end of June & had two fabulous days of paddling. Tim, Richard H, Philippe, Phillipa, Fiona & visiting Danish paddler Jakob arrived Thurs eve at Sea View Campsite Devon. Jakob has kindly helped host CKC trips to Denmark in previous years. This year the campsite had left part of the campsite grass un-cut to enable birds to nest. So we were treated to the song of larks hovering above us.
Friday 29 June – Phil, a local Dartmouth paddler accompanied us. First we took Jakob past Dartmouth’s mermaid statue, before heading out to sea. We then paddled out to Mew Stone rocks, where seals were lounging on rocks, or following us curiously as we paddled through the rocks. We returned to the estuary, stopped for lunch on the east side; before crossing the channel and paddling to Blackpool (Devon!) beach with the flow. We persevered up the shingle beach up to the café, spurred on by tales of how delicious the ice cream was! At the café we found ourselves – dressed in wetsuit shorts, helmet (forgotten to take off) – mingling with wedding guests who were looking stunning (despite perspiring) – it felt quite incongruous. We managed a tiny bit of frisbee on the shingle beach – but struggled with the gradient of the beach! On our return paddle we rock-hopped back & found the passage behind some very tall rocks, which enabled us to take short-cut back into Dartmouth.
Saturday 30 June – we headed across the upper Dartmouth ferry, to Brixham, with David, a local paddler to do a one way paddle. We launched from the small beach east of Brixham’s breakwater. The paddle from Brixham out & round Berry head was lumpy, and then the sea state reduced for the rest of our paddle. We paddled underneath the largest guillemot colony on the south coast on the north side of Sharkham point. It was fabulous to watch the striking white & black guillemots come & go.
Despite the mixed gender of our group we landed (avoiding surfers & swimmers) and had lunch at Man Sands! Before Mew Stone rocks we split into two groups. Richard & Philippe returned to Dartmouth, so that they could get back to Philippe’s van before the carpark ticket in Brixham ran out. The rest of the group had a leisurely visit to see the seals at Mew Stone and paddle into Dartmouth. Thanks are due to David’s wife and Richard & Philippe for doing the drop off/car shuttle to enable the one-way paddle. In the evening we headed to Start Bay Inn to sample some of its delicious sea food.
Sunday morning we woke up to the sound of rain on the tents. Lightening could be seen out to sea, slowing heading inland. Since had had two warm & sunny paddling days, we abandoned plans to do a half day paddle on Sunday, which would have been in solid rain, to preserve memories of our lovely sunny-paddling days!
Thanks to Tim, Phil & David from Dartmouth for their welcome, enabling us to use a couple of DYC kayaks and good company on the water.
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